200-4R Rebuild: Andy Lehoskay. These are modifications that I do to the 200R4 when I Rebuild. One thing I must mention is that you need a shop manual and/or. These are modifications that I do to the 200R4 when I Rebuild them. One thing I must mention is that you need a shop manual and/or someone who is VERY.

• 200r4 Transmission Rebuild Manual

Back by popular demand, I eventually plan to update this and put it on my own website but here it is until I have time to get around to that project. I don't have the time at the moment to check the posts daily although I try to answer questions as time permits. My email is the best way to contact me for questions.

The 200-4R is an excellent choice for a street or street/strip overdrive transmission IF you do the proper upgrades to keep it alive. There are a few weaknesses that must be addressed. If you are below the 350HP/TQ level, a near stock 200-4R with a Grand National Servo, upgraded 2nd band, hardened sun shell and pump stator shaft, valve body recalibration kit, and boost valves will serve you very well.

Once you surpass the 350HP/TQ level an improved forward drum is a very important upgrade. There are several of these on the market. There are hardened/heat-treated/cryro'd drums and there are drums modified with a 'billet' shaft.

I believe the billet shaft models are the best bet. These are available from. Also important is the direct clutch configuration at higher power levels. I firmly believe that dual feeding is the ultimate answer.

It does however REQUIRE that you use a billet forward drum. I also like using Alto Red clutches with a stock 6 count and stock thick direct steel plates. A larger billet servo becomes necessary at over 450 HP/TQ and in heavy cars it is preferred at lower power levels. My advice is that if you use the billet servos, you retain the large cushion spring despite what the manufacturers instructions recommend. Disassembly: Remove the shifter lever, speedometer housing and driven gear, pump bolts (13mm), and then tap the servo cover on the passenger side of the case with a rubber mallet to dislodge it and gain access to the servo snap ring. Remove the snap ring with a flat tip screwdriver at the notch in the bottom of the case.

Grab the servo cover with a pair of channel locks and spin, wiggle it loose. Remove the servo assembly.

Remove the pan bolts and pan. Remove the filter.

Unbolt the TCC solenoid near the front of the case, it will have 2 wires going to it. Remove the governor cover from the rear pan area. (4) 13mm bolts. Remove the governor. Remove the wiring, 1-2 accumulator housing, parking pawl bracket, transfer tube, and valve body bolts. The valve body should now be loose and can be disconnected from the shift linkage and set aside.

The 3-4 accumulator piston and spring can be removed from the case, as well as the check balls, 2 10mm center support bolts, and band pin. This exposes the OD apply piston/center support. There are two snap rings. An external snap ring that retains the OD apply piston return spring assembly into the center support.

It must be removed first. You can use pressure from your hand to force the spring plate back and get the snap ring started at one end then 'spiral' it off, while working your pressure around the spring assembly. Once removed it will look like this: You can now remove the large internal snap ring that holds the center support in the case. This snap ring also works well for a TH400 intermediate pressure plate snap ring Once the snap ring is removed, if you removed the center support bolts previously, it can be slid out of the case. It is a very snug fit.

It may come out with the direct drum and the forward drum. Remove the direct drum and forward drum if not already out, remove and discard the 2nd gear band, remove the output shaft retaining snap ring. You can then remove the selective washer and thrust washer, front internal ring gear, front planetary, and front sun gear. Now slide the sun shell and shaft out. Remove the low carrier snap ring. And then remove the low clutch housing. This usually requires a special tool but can be done using a couple of 'L' shaped devices to get behind it and work forward.

Once this is accomplished you can remove the spacer snap ring fromt he case and pull the output shaft forward to remove the output ring gear, rear planetary assembly, and all the low reverse clutches.

I rebuild a 700r4 that in my 78 now, an yes it does work. I did have to pull it out right after I was done because I didn't put the sun gear in it. 200r4 is similar an I wouldn't have a problem building one of those. Its not as hard as you might think but you really need to pay attention.

I would strongly advice getting a compleat performance rebuild kit, their around 500.00. Theirs plenty of cheaper kits but you won't get no where near what comes in a performance kit. If you go to hotrodders.com, an do a search for 200r4 you'll find tons of info. I've rebuilt several engines but I had never built an auto trans, it was my first. I rebuild a 700r4 that in my 78 now, an yes it does work. I did have to pull it out right after I was done because I didn't put the sun gear in it. 200r4 is similar an I wouldn't have a problem building one of those.

Its not as hard as you might think but you really need to pay attention. I would strongly advice getting a compleat performance rebuild kit, their around 500.00. Theirs plenty of cheaper kits but you won't get no where near what comes in a performance kit. If you go to hotrodders.com, an do a search for 200r4 you'll find tons of info. I've rebuilt several engines but I had never built an auto trans, it was my first. Since your wanting to build it yourself go to ckperformance get Chris's book on the 200 if your buying a 'kit' Chris has everything in a 'kit' If you need specific stuff only go to Jakes performance in texas (our tranny guru ) the TORQUE level of your engine will dictate if you need the billet input shaft $300 and hub $200 ish. All the rest is pretty common stuff.and of course JAKES website has some tips on the 200.

200r4 Transmission Rebuild Manual

Hell you can even print out step by step instructions Jake posted on the GN site a few yrs ago IIRC. And NO you don't need a TURBO GN trans to live behind 500 hp. ^ Good info here ^ 200-4r is not the most difficult transmission to do, if you understand the basics of working on a transmission, at least much less intimidating compared to an overdrive transmission like a 700/4L60/4L80. BUT you need to know what parts to choose and what to do to make it live above let's say 350/350 (TQ/HP). It's not as forgiving as a TH350 where you put some red Alto plates, hardened race, dual feed it, tighten up the clearances and open up some oil restrictions and then slam it. You might have to upgrade to billet parts like the input shaft and make changes to the line pressure circuit to make it live. Best thing, is to buy a complete kit and let the guess work out.