Intertherm Manual 1380
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. Keep allergies at bay—smart design helps reduce the effect of indoor allergens. Lowest surface temperatures available make SoftHEAT perfect for homes with kids and pets. Hydronic heat uses environmentally friendly fluid. Sleep soundly, thanks to near-silent operation.
Install easily, with no plumbing required. Save on energy bills—SoftHEAT spreads residual heat even after thermostat turns off. Rest easy—includes high-temperature safety shutoff feature. Powder coated for a smooth, durable finish.
Proudly made in the USA. 7-year warranty. ETL listed to UL standards. Technical Information The heater is constructed of 22-gauge steel for durability. Baseboard heaters work best when placed under a window and at least 12 inches from furniture or other objects. Keep at least a 12 inch minimum distance in front of baseboard and from objects hanging above (i.e., drapes). Do not install below electrical outlets.
Heater may be placed directly on the floor and mounted to the wall. 120 volt models have a unique built-in feature that stops electricity flowing to your heater if it’s connected to the wrong voltage. Rated 5 out of 5 by JJPrats from Even comfortable heat - Economical because you only have to heat the room you're in I miss my all-electric baseboard heated house. My new house has a heat pump with a single central thermostat.
My old house had these Cadet Softheat Hydronic baseboard heaters with a thermostat in each room. In the new house each room is at a different temperature, especially noticeable on very cold days. In the old house with these baseboard heaters, each room was comfortably and evenly heated because each room had its own thermostat. And we found it cheaper to heat the house because we only had to heat the rooms we were in at any given time, not the entire house. I've lived in houses with traditional electric baseboards and you were hot when they cycled on and cold when they cycled off.
And burnt dust was not pleasant to smell. The Cadet Softheat heaters always maintained a constant room temperature, did not smell burnt, and you did not have to worry about curtains and electrical cords being too close to them. If I had the money I would replace the forced-air heat pump system in my new house with electric hydronic baseboard heat.
I'm not sure what a 'seal fusable link or kilxon type of thermostat' are, and unfortunately a big chunk of the part number was on the bit of plastic that has broken off. It looks like a little round button with two wires on it, and inside a smiley face shaped piece of metal which presumably contacts (or not) depending on how hot it is. I'm guessing from googling that it's a klixon type. Regardless, I spoke with some people at universal appliance parts inc, and they tell me that the cadet/intertherm parts are identical. I've ordered a replacement limit switch ($18 kit), and will post here one way or the other once I get it. I have a similar Intertherm baseboard heater, and learned today that the heat sink is broken. Is the heat sink the same thing as the limit switch or perhaps included in it?
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The the description, it sounds similar. If so, I will order the part ASAP, if I know which website to order it from. I'm using it now by turning it on and off manually, but the friend who bypassed the heat sink and thermostat told me it is not safe to go without the heat sink, and I want to get one as soon as possible. Thanks, and blessings!
Manual can result in malfunction of the furnace, death, personal injury. Factory Setting T-4.
'heat sink' sounds different? The limit switch is a little round button shaped thing, about the size of a quarter, with a couple of wires coming out of it. The limit switch's job in life is to turn off the heater when the thermostat keeps saying 'more heat' (because the room is cold), but the heater is working too hard and needs to cool off for a while. Regardless, these guys were very helpful for me: (they used to be called 'Universal Appliance Parts' which I mentioned in an earlier post, but they renamed) they certainly have a bunch of parts available, pick 'Cadet Heater Parts' from the products menu on the left of their main page. The cadet models appear to be just rebranded 'intertherm' - all the bits are interchangeable. Just make sure you pick the right voltage for your heater type (it says on the little electrical access panel what type and model it is).
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Thank you for the lead - I will call these people tomorrow! The 'heat sink' my friend showed me was smaller than a quarter or even a dime, but the top of it was round. I am hoping the company you referred me to will be able to provide one, either alone or as part of a kit. The repairman said the heat sink was necessary in order for the thermostat to work; otherwise it doesn't turn off (apparently, not even if the room is warm enough!) and the unit can overheat and start a fire.
Intertherm Manual
My friend wired the heater to bypass the thermostat, but now I have to babysit the unit by unplugging it every so often so it can cool down. So it's a good question what a heat sink is! (I'd thought of them only in connection with computers.) I only hope it will be possible to get one for my make and model.
It's an Intertherm, but I haven't been able to find the model number on it. Hello again, I've discovered that my 'heat sink' is now called a 'limit' but they no longer make the right size for my heater. The limit I need is the size of a dime; the new ones are the size of a quarter.
Does anyone know a supplier of used or older parts, or perhaps another brand that would fit (it's 4 McV) - or someone capable of adapting the size or even constructing a custom part from scratch? I'd greatly appreciate any leads! I am turning the heater on and off manually (on an hour, off 10 minutes), but it surely is cold in the mornings! The make is Intertherm (now called Cadet), Softheat, model EP1380-1202, and the number of the part is 20700L237-759L300, 4 McV. I have found a potential source of NEW parts to fit it, on eBay, seller name bluestang5, store name 'Actual Technicians Heating and Air.'
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They have quite a variety of parts! The trouble is, they are having some problem determining the exact size I need. If they mean physical size, I can get mine back from the friend who removed it and measure it in millimeters; if they mean cutoff temp, I would take the closest LOWER one to be safe! I am getting back to them as soon as I post this. I am then going to check out the link you included in your message, in hopes they will have the exact size in stock.