Oct 23, 2012 - Machine is a Millermatic 35 from 1977 or 1978. For a particular wire size and/or material thickness as outlined in the unit manual. And where applicable, we upgrade all shipments up to 35 lb to Second Day. Parts delivery system in the business: Signature Service: Warranty and replacement parts support so good it's guaranteed! Helmet shell, Millermatic.

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I just went out and checked them again. I removed them from the rails and shorted them for at least 5 seconds immediately before testing.1 cap reads 1uf and the other 5 all read OL. If I switch to Ohms, they all start around 1k to 5k ohm and resistance started climbing.

Like Duane was saying, they aren't open or shorted, but just tired after 35 years. I rechecked the main power diodes again while I was out there. They all read.38v one way and open the other way with meter on diode check. I think they are OK. The problem I'm having is the arc is not steady. I surges considerably in abt 1/2 to 1 sec intervals. Wire speed is steady and varies with speed control.

Doesn't matter which tap I'm using either. I haven't plugged the welder in for over 7 years, probably closer to 10 years. It has done this for as long as I have owned it so I don't have anything to compare it's current performance aginst. I ordered a new set of 11,000uf 50v caps. I'll slap them in when they arrive and let you guys know what happens.

Zz23zz, your old caps may have been fine after a little conditioning. Electrolytic capacitors can 'deform' when left uncharged for long periods of time They can be 'reformed' by applying controlled voltage along with limiting the current through the capacitor until the reforming process is completed. Applying full voltage from a 'stiff' voltage source without current limiting to deformed capacitors can fry or blow up the capacitors due to excessive current and resulting internal heating and boiling of electrolyte. Of course, some old capacitors have simply lost electrolyte or completely dried out and can not be rescued. The dielectric (insulating layer) between the layers of aluminum foil inside the capacitor is chemically formed on the surface of the aluminum. Its extreme thinness is the reason that very high capacitance can be achieved in a relatively small package compared to capacitors using plastic films or oil-soakerd paper as the dielectric (the insulating layer between the two layers of foil). Reforming can be easily performed if you have a voltage source with a current limiting function.

Such capabilities are common in laboratory bench power supplies these days, but, of course, most people are not equipped with such power supplies. The same thing can be accomplished using a fixed DC voltage source providing a voltage just below the rated working voltage of the capacitor and inserting a current limiting resistor in series with the voltage source. If the unformed capacitor tends to draw too much current, the applied voltage will drop across the series resistor instead of overheating the capacitor or blasting through the weak dielectric in the unformed capacitor.

Without researching the topic, I'd pick a resistance that would allow not more than, say, a few tens of milliamps to flow even if the capacitor is a dead short. This may be overly conservative, but, hey, you've got plenty of time to let the reforming take place. Be sure the resistor can handle the power, assuming a dead short in the capacitor. These suggestions are from a hobbyist, not an expert.

Monitor capacitor temperature for the first few minutes and hours of reforming and periodically until finished. Google 'reforming electrolytic capacitors' for more authoritative information. If you don't have and can't borrow a bench power supply you can make up a simple power supply with a small power transformer, rectifier bridge, and series resistor from Radio Shack. Filtering or regulation is not necessary, but be sure that your power supply can not apply peak voltage above the rated working voltage of the capacitor. Apply voltage to the capacitor via the series current limiting resistor and monitor voltage across the capacitor.

It may start out very low, with most of the applied voltage dropped across the series resistor, but it should show signs of rising soon. If it does not rise soon, the capacitor is junk.

It may take quite a long time for the capacitor to reform and the leakage current to drop to a reasonable value. The reasonable value depends upon your application and operating conditions. After making absolutely sure that nothing is overheating (and, preferably, making sure that an exploding or leaking capacitor will not damage it's surroundings) let it soak for a day or more.

If you want to optimize the process, consult Google or the capacitor manufacturer. I realize it's too late for you to use this information, zz28zz, but others may find it useful sometime. If you don't have a capacitance meter, you can get a rough idea about the condition of an electrolytic capacitor using an ohmmeter on a range that causes the voltage to rise on the capacitor over a reasonable time period - perhaps nmore than ten seconds but less than 100 seconds (depending upon your patience). Short the capacitor for many seconds. Measure the voltage across the capacitor.

It should be about zero volts. (Some capacitors that have had voltage applied, then been shorted will 'recover' some voltage after the short is removed due to dielectric absorption. This is the reason to check voltage after removing the short.) Apply the ohmmeter to the capacitor terminals, being sure that the polarity on the ohmmeter leads matches the capacitor polarity. (Some analog VOMs have positive voltage on the black lead.) If the capacitor is good, you will see the resistance value drop to a low value, then, as the capacitor charges up from the test voltage inside the ohmmeter, gradually climb up to a stable value indicating the value of the internal shunt leakage resistance of the capacitor. The speed of this climb to a stable reading is a function of the internal resistance of the ohmmeter and the capacitance value of the capacitor. It happens very quickly with a low value capacitor or a low ohmmeter range, and very slowly with a large electrolytic and a high ohmmeter range. If the reading stays stuck at a low value of resistance the capacitor is bad due to high leakage current.

This simple test will tell you if the capacitor is 'good' or 'bad,' but will not give you a very good idea of capacitance. By using a digital multimeter having high internal resistance, a voltage source, and a series resistor high enough to get a charging time of several tens of seconds, you can get a reasonably accurate measurement of the capacitance of your capacitor. Apply the voltage to the capacitor via the series resistor, start a stopwatch, and observe the voltage across the capacitor with the DMM. The time for the voltage to reach 63% of the applied voltage is the 'RC time constant' of the resistor and capacitor, assuming negligible loading by the DMM or the internal leakage of the capacitor. The capacitance in farads is the time in seconds divided by the value of the series resistor. Example: Ten seconds with a 1 megohm resistor indicates a capacitance value of ten microfarads.

The exact voltage applied is immaterial - we only have to measure the time to reach 63% of the applied voltage. I hope this is of value to someone out there. New caps installed today. Noticed the weld wire was starting to rust. Pulled abt 50 yards off spool and got down to some good wire. Tried to feed new wire into liner but it only went abt 8' and got stuck. Disassembled the gun hose at front of welder face and discovered the liner is either broken or there's supposed to be 2 pieces.Not sure which.

Anyway I was able to feed wire thru first piece then into second piece, then reconnected gun hose to welder and it seems to feed OK. Ran a bead and the welder it's definately working better.

The bead however is up on top of the lap joint. Increased power and same thing happened. Slowed wire speed, same thing Backside shows I'm getting good penetration. The arc was jumping around a bit.

I'm thinking the 100% argon may be the problem (welding steel). I'll pick-up some co2/argon mix and try again. Is there supposed to be a 6-8' section of liner from feed roller to disconnect at front face, or is it supposed to be one piece from tip to feed roller? On an Ohmmeter, a cap should show at or close to a short right after being connected and climb to an open. Electrolytics have a polarity.

Hook em up backwards and they can explode. Caps in general can build a charge after sitting out in the open. Had a guy at work get a hole put in his hand when he brushed by one of the high voltage caps (was shorted when removed) that we had sitting on the bench. Since then I will safety wire the leads when removing capacitors from our equipment. The caps at work run at 8-11kV though and are about the size of a shoe box. Pick-up a bottle of 25/75 mix today.

Also got a new liner and tip. Once I saw the new liner it was obvious that there is supposed to a seperate short section of liner between the front panel disconnect and the feed rollers. Getting the new liner back in was a pain in the a$$. Everything was fine until the last inch. Finally put a slight curve in the gun-end and it slipped right in. Fired-up machine and wow!

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Not sure if the caps or the gas made it hotter but I burned thru on some 16g real quick using tap 4 (95A). Dropped down to 60A and ran a nice bead.

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